Ait Ben Haddou: What to See on the Way to Merzouga

What the Ksar Is

The site has been fortified since the 11th century, during the Almoravid period. None of the buildings you see today are believed to date from before the 17th century, because earth walls need constant rebuilding. UNESCO inscribed the Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou in 1987, as reference 444, under cultural criteria (iv) and (v).

UNESCO calls it an eminent example of a ksar in southern Morocco. The protected core is 3.03 ha, with a 16.32 ha buffer zone. That is small enough to cross on foot, which is why one to two hours is enough.

How It Was Built

Everything is rammed earth, adobe, clay bricks and wood. The upper floors use lighter adobe to reduce the load on the walls below, so the top stories look thinner as you climb. Patched walls are part of the site, not neglect.

The Best Known Titles

The Wilderness Travel guide lists these productions shot at the ksar. Match a scene you remember to the walls you see from the riverbank and the top of the hill.

Was Game of Thrones Filmed Here?

Game of Thrones is not on the film list the Wilderness Travel guide gives for the ksar, and Wikipedia does not confirm it either. What you can see for sure are the walls used in Gladiator (2000) and Lawrence of Arabia (1962). The view from the river side, with the ksar stacked up the slope, is the frame most films used.

Activities at a Glance

This table brings together the things to do at the ksar from the That Travelista and Wilderness Travel guides, with the time and cost each source gives. Entry is free under the Wilderness Travel guide, so the only costs are tips and transport.

The Climb and the Creek

The climb is the core of a visit. Lanes rise between the houses to the top of the hill, over the river and the valley. Wear shoes with grip on the uneven earth paths.

On a short tour stop, do the river view first, since it is quicker to reach than the top.

The Best Hour

Around 10:00 am or 5:00 pm, the light is softer and the crowds are thinner, according to the Wilderness Travel guide. A TripAdvisor reviewer also names the evening as a good time to go. Midday is the worst slot for photos and for heat on the exposed climb, so carry water if your tour arrives then.

The 20-Minute Problem

The That Travelista guide warns that Sahara tours sometimes allot as few as 20 minutes to the kasbah. That buys the river view, not the climb. Ask how long the stop lasts, or take the private desert tour from Marrakech to Merzouga and set the clock yourself.

Getting There Compared

This table compares the ways to reach the ksar from Marrakech and Ouarzazate, with times and fares as the Wilderness Travel and That Travelista guides give them. The taxi fare stays in dirhams, as quoted.

Bus, Taxi or Tour

Supratours, the ONCF rail subsidiary, runs coaches to towns the train does not serve, including the south from Marrakech. The That Travelista guide puts the bus to Ouarzazate at 4.5 to 5 hours, then a taxi at 150 to 200 MAD. A desert tour bundles the drive: the Marrakech to Merzouga 3-Day Desert Tour with Camel Trek costs $114.05 per person and goes on to the dunes.

Driving yourself? The FCDO warns that night driving is dangerous because of poor lighting, and UK drivers need the 1968 international driving permit. Cross the pass in daylight, and take a front seat if you get carsick.

The Families Inside

The That Travelista guide counts four families still living within the walled confines, without electricity. Wikipedia says most of the village now lives in modern dwellings across the river, linked by a pedestrian bridge completed in 2011. The tips asked in some lanes often come from residents who open a rooftop.

Carry small coins and ask before you photograph a person.

What It Means on the Ground

The 2023 earthquake left cracks and partial collapses, and Wikipedia notes a risk of further collapses. Stay on the main lanes, keep off broken roofs and do not lean on cracked walls. The FCDO warns that flash flooding near rivers can make walking dangerous, mainly in winter, so take care at the river crossing after rain.

Three Tours Compared

This table compares three desert tours from Marrakech that follow the road past the ksar, with prices and ratings as each listing gives them. Prices are per person and start at the lowest option.

Which One for the Ksar

All three run 3 days and 2 nights, so the ksar is a short stop. If one to two hours here matters, ask the operator before booking. For more time on the road, the 4 days tour from Marrakech to Merzouga with a night in Dades spreads the drive over one more day.

Every format is on the page of tours from Marrakech to Merzouga.